26 July 2008

Finally, Venice!

Yeah. It's been two weeks. Time to finish this trip. I have other things to write about. I think I will just show the buffet o' stuff I saw. Most on the last day. All, very much worth it!

I spent Monday in Cannaregio & San Michele. Like Sunday, I went down the Riva degli Schiavoni to the Strada Nuova. It's where the locals go to shop. I was supposed to stop at the Ca' d/Oro, a museum, but on today's trip, I was taking the Vaporetti, and for reasons I will never understand, the one that I was on did not stop at Ca' d'Oro, but instead at San Stae, so I had to walk back. And from the streets, Ca' d'Oro doesnt' look like anything. It's from the Canal that is is striking. By the time I found it, I lost interest as the streets were getting full.

I wanted to spend time to two places today:
  1. Campo Ghetto Nuovo, and
  2. Rialto Bridge. Now technically, Rialto Bridge is in San Polo, and it has one of the largest markets in Venice.
Rialto Bridge [built 1588 to 1591] was the only bridge over the Grand Canal until the Accademia bridge was built in 1854. It spans 92 ft with a height of 25 ft. Rialto is a corruption of rivo alto, or upper bank. It's the area of the lagoon which was higher than elsewhere and less likely to flood. The main market has been on its present site since 1097. This area became a commercial hub. Relative to San Marco [the political heart], this was Wall Street. Throughout the Middle Ages, it controlled trade between western Europe and the East. This property came to an end in 1499 when news of Vasco da Gama's voyage around the Cape to India reached the Rialto, and the city merchants realised that the sea routes would spell the end of the Venetian overland monopoly to the East. Fifteen years later a fire reduced most of the area to ruins, except for the church of San Giacomo.

Mercato di Rialto ... wow! It has everything, fish, gold, fruits, vegetables, sausages, pasta, dried fruit, beans, cheese, tea, coffee, spices, etc.! And it was hot! And it was crowded! Of course, I did decide to go to Venice in July.

From the Rialto, I went to Il Ghetto. Ghetto is a Venetian word and all the sad ghettos in the world were named after this little island in Cannaregio. It was once the home of an iron foundry. Members of the Jewish community were permitted to live in Venice for not more than 15 years and to earn their livelihood through money-lending, second-hand trading and, later, as doctors and musicians. In 1516 they earned the right to live permanently in the city.

The iron foundry island was closed off from sunset till dawn by heavy gates across its access bridges. No members could leave, except for doctors visiting patients. Property rights were limited. The Ghetto became the goal of Jewish people escaping persecution. Overcrowding was a problem and the only way to go was up. Many of the buildings have as many as seven stories. After the Republic's fall in 1797, the Ghetto closed. Jewish Venetians gained citizenship in 1866.

The Campo del Ghetto Nuovo is the heart of the Ghetto, approached by three bridges.

In the Campo dei Mori, gets its name from the three 13th-century stone figures of Moors set in it buildings. They are thought to be the Mastelli brothers, Greek merchants from the south Greece.

Jesuit church of Santa Maria Assunta, commonly called the Gesuiti. The Jesuits were refused entry to Venice for 50 years during the 17th century. They commissioned this church in 1715.


I had a bellini in a cafe' outside of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. The Franciscan friary was founded in 1250. This Gothic church dates from the 14th and 15th centuries.

Wells and water - every Venetian campo has a well, dating from the time before fresh water was piped from the mainland by an aqueduct. Below each well-head there is a 16-foot deep, sand-filled cistern with an impermeable lining. The brick-lined well-shaft stands at its centre, connected by tiny drainage holes to the sand. As rainwater drains into the cistern from cracks in the paving, it is filtered by the sand and passes into the shaft ready to be drawn up.

Madonna dell'Orto is a Gothic church known as "Tintoretto's church". The great artist [1518-94] lived near by and is buried there. The church was originally dedicated to St. Christopher, the patron saint of travellers, in the hope that he would keep an eye on the gondoliers who ran the ferry service to the northern islands from a nearby jetty. He was demoted when a miraculous statue of the Madonna and Child was moved here from a neighbouring orto [vegetable garden].
I did end up getting stuck in a big rain storm, complete with sleet. I hid in one of the vaporetti stops. Other than that, I figured out how to get myself to the airport for 2.50 Euros; only 10% of what it cost to get to my hotel the first night! I am done! Time to move on to writing about new adventures. G'night!